On Monday April 27th, 16 of us plus Ned travelled down to the mediaeval village of Dunster, near Minehead for our Spring walking week in the Exmoor region. Unfortunately due to mobility problems, Angela was unable to walk with us again this year. We had enjoyed warm sunshine on our way down and we met up with our guide, Julian who took us on a stroll around this pretty village in the warm early evening sunshine. We met for our briefing after that and Julian explained that he had recently contracted knee problems and wouldn’t be walking with us over the next three days but had asked a local walk-leader friend, Adrian, to stand in for him. We met Adrian at dinner time and learned of his detailed knowledge of Exmoor so we felt in safe hands. Word had got out that it was my birthday that day and I was treated to a candle-lit pudding and the Happy Birthday song. Simon Clarke joined us half way through dinner due to an earlier golf engagement. Sara, Mary and Chris would be joining us the next day due to attending a funeral of one of their St. Lukes friends.
DAY 1 - TUESDAY 28th APRIL - A COASTAL WALK FROM COUNTISBURY TO HUNTER INN VIA LYNMOUTH - 10 miles
Tuesday 28th April
We woke to grey skies and a cold wind in a marked contrast to the blue skies and warm sunshine of the previous day. But it was dry, at least. After breakfast we gathered and were driven to an isolated car park near the village of Countisbury. Adrian explained a bit about the area and that we were close to the radio transmitter of an early trans-Atlantic transmission station. We set off and soon were passing through yellow gorse bushes to emerge onto the coast path with extensive sea views. Our route took us along this path which was narrow and often perched on the edge of the cliff face. The gusty wind meant that we had to be cautious and watch every step. After a while we dropped down into Lynmouth and were told of the devastating floods of 1952 when many homes were washed out to sea. We stopped to read the information boards before zig zagging up the steep cliff crossing the funicular railway several times on the way up to Lynton. This famous railway, built in 1890, is 862 feet long and one of only 3 such water powered railways in the world. Lynton, at the top of the cliff, is a Victorian sea-side town and we stopped here for our morning break and the chance for a hot coffee. Moving on, we climbed further up and learned of Hollerday House, the home of Sir George Newnes, who was a benefactor to the town and raised funds for the building of the funicular railway. Only the site of the grand cliff top house now remains since it mysteriously burned down after his death in 1913.
Leaving the Lynton area behind, the coastal path zig zagged around along the cliff side giving us wide sweeping distant views of South Wales over the Bristol Channel. Frustratingly South Wales and much of the Bristol Channel seemed to be in sunshine yet our side of the water remained stubbornly under clouds. Our lunch stop was in a grassy valley with impressive rocky outcrops, known as the Valley of the Rocks. We watched wild goats grazing on the foliage. Richard D had an app on his phone identifying the ships that we could see out in the channel. One was a car carrying ship heading to Avonmouth from China and the other, a smaller boat, was taking vegetable oil to Poland. Our path then weaved around clinging to the cliff face and then further inland again to pass Lee Abbey. This is a Christian retreat which hosts conferences and adheres to environmentally sound and sustainable land management and farming. The magnificent cream coloured building and grounds could be seen from a considerable distance. A fund-raising bucket inviting us to toss a coin from a distance was too much of a temptation for Catherine. After a few practice stones a coin was thrown but landed on the ground! At least it could be seen. As we neared the end of our walk, Ned spotted a plastic dog protruding from a hole in the hillside. He was most interested and kept us amused for a while. We arrived at Hunters Inn, a large isolated pub and hotel where we sat and waited for our transport back to Dunster. The cold wind meant that most of us ended up inside and sampling the wares as we waited. At supper that night we were joined by the St. Lukes ladies to bring us up to the full total of 18 walkers.
Wednesday 29th April
We were greeted by a sunny start on our second walking day and we gathered as a full group to be taken to the pretty thatched cottage village of Winsford about half an hours drive from our hotel. We soon started climbing up onto the moor, passing some very tall conifers on the way. Adrian explained the differences between natural broad leaf woodland and coniferous plantations. It was clear which was of greater benefit to the environment. The gorse bushes were full of bright yellow flowers at this time of year. Once out on the moorland and next to a group of Exmoor ponies, Adrian explained how these ponies are actually owned and these days had little monetary value so were kept almost as pets by farmers. but they were of significant benefit to the moor in helping biodiversity and seed spreading. We also learned about lichens and mosses on trees and there were several examples of the symbiotic relationships to be seen and studied in close up detail on some of the knarled trees along the paths. As we started to descend off the moor, we lost the rear 4 of us who had stopped to retrieve some walking poles. Our back-marker, Caroline was with them so they were in safe hands. Unfortunately there was no phone signal and in the front group we could not hear the whistle being blown. Adrian returned to find and guide them back to us. However we were at our lunch stop by the Tarr Steps, an exceptionally long and historic stone slab clapper bridge crossing the River Barle. It made a delightful stopping place in the warm sunshine. Our woodland walk after lunch was along the River Barle which was made all the more attractive by a carpet of bluebells illuminated by the dappled sunshine. Despite being suggested that we might see otters and kingfishers, nothing quite so thrilling was seen. Emerging from the woodland across a ford we encountered two fine looking horses who clearly had a taste for wooden fences as they nibbled on the top bar and had chewed impressive chunks out of it all along.
Our walk continued up hill again and out onto moorland at Winsford Hill. The warm sunshine and pleasant but gusty wind meant that we would all return home with colour in our faces. We arrived at the 428m Trig Point on the hill top where we stopped for a little while. Ned was placed on top since Caroline chose not to repeat her acrobatics this year. He obligingly sat there bemused and posed for photos before Jean lifted him down. Shortly after that we arrived at the Punchbowl. This is a magnificent contortion in the hillside and spectacular to sit and watch. We pondered on its formation before setting off on the last leg back to Winsford. Coming down off the moor we passed fields of sheep and baby lambs before rejoining the road just outside Winsford. Our transport was waiting so we went back to Dunster for our meal and afterwards a visit to the Rohan shop where we were offered Prosecco and a chance to buy at a specially discounted rate any of their products. They did quite a decent bit of business from us that evening.
DAY 3 - A CIRCULAR MOORLAND WALK FROM BRENDON THROUGH LORNA DOONE COUNTRY - 9 miles
Thursday 30th April
Another bright sunny morning greeted us for our final walking day of this break. Again, the hotel mini-busses took us to the start of our walk. Today our walk was a circular walk from the tiny village of Brendon, nestled in the valley of East Lyn river. As we left the village, we passed a yard of ostriches and then headed upwards gaining height quickly before levelling off with commanding views over the valley below. Adrian stopped to demonstrate how native woodland will regenerate slowly if nibbling by sheep and deer is prevented. We could see this on a hillside over the valley. Our path then gradually dropped down to meet the river and we followed part of the Coleridge Way to arrive at our morning break point at the Lorna Doone farm and visitor centre. Moving on, our route followed Badgworthy Water both in woodland and in the open for around two miles, creating a delightful walk with birdsong along the way. We decided to have our lunch stop at the site of a mediaeval village. All that was left was the rocky outline of a few of the buildings. Adrian told us of life as it would have been back then in the 16th and 17th centuries and of the Lorna Doone connection to this area. Although for most of us the name was very familiar, few of us knew much about the story. It was a warm and sheltered spot to recline and have our lunch and listen to Adrian’s interesting information. Lorna Doone is a romantic Victorian story loosely based on real events that were based in this area of Exmoor.
Back on our feet again after lunch we headed out further into the yellow tuffetted moor and real Lorna Doone country. The sun was beating down and the wind quite strong but we could see for miles. It was clear that had it been very boggy quite recently but now the top was crusting over but quite springy underfoot. Adrian stopped to explain how moorland management used to work and when it was a capital offence if a deer was found on your land adjacent to royal hunting grounds. Special fences were built to make it hard for deer to enter but easy to escape if they should find themselves on privately owned land. Leaving the moor, we passed through the very pretty hamlet of Tippacott. One small Jack Russell came out when he spotted Ned and made his displeasure at Ned’s presence known. He made sure that we didn’t linger on his patch by following us for quite some distance. Our return to Brendon was down a rocky gully and we arrived a little earlier than planned. Many of us took the opportunity to visit “The Staghunters” village pub and have a well earned drink in the pub garden by the river while waiting for our transport to arrive.
In the evening, as with last year, we had the opportunity of a walk along Dunster beach and sea front in the evening twilight. It was a beautiful time of day and a lovely way to end our walking week. We all thanked the hotel staff, Adrian and Julian for our very enjoyable week and they were presented with cards and a monetary token of our gratitude.
A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO OUR TWO LEADERS, ADRIAN AND JULIAN
Report by Simon Thornhill